Instructions for lens shade removal on the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye: įinally, Michel has an excellent review of Samyang, the newest fisheye of very good quality and relatively low cost:
#SNS HDR FORUM HOW TO#
Instructions on how to do this on the Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye: This is a bit scary, especially on the Tokina. When using the Nikkor 10.5mm or the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye on a camera with a full sized sensor, such as the Canon 5D, the lens shades need to be removed. There is also an excellent GUI for Enfuse, by Ingemar Bergmark here: They are included in the Hugin distro package. There is a free Open Source project stitcher, called Hugin:Įnfuse (to "fuse" an exposure series) can be downloaded here: Įrik Krause has made some "Droplets" to semi-automate Enfuse. It is important to always shoot in RAW and do the Photoshopping with 16 bit tifs. More information regarding the above equipment and software list can be found at the panotools wiki. Some other tonemappers are Photomatix, SNS-HDR and Picturenaut (free) The dynamic range is then compressed, either using "Fusing" in PTGUi Pro or with Enfuse, or tonemapped using FDRTools. Practically all panoramas have been shot exposure bracketed (between 3 and 15 exposure-brackets). Photoshop CS2, CS3, CS4, CS5 or CS6 for RAW > 16bit Tif conversion, PTGui Pro for stitching and blending. I use a Nodal Ninja 3 or Nodal Ninja 5 Panorama Head. A less expensive alternative would be any of the Canon or Nikon APS format DSLRs with a Sigma 8mm f3.5. I use a Canon 6D with Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye or Tokina 10-17mm fisheye zoomlens.
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very good and clearly explained general photography tutorials.
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International vr photographers association. my preferred interface for the panotools forum Many thanks to Erik Krause and others who keep this important resource up to date. Best source for information about panoramas. Overview of Panorama photography techniques by Hans Nyberg.